Here is a list of where to shop in Paris if you are looking for perfume (for men and women), scented candles and home fragrances.
(1) Annick Goutal: Best known for Eau d’Hadrien, Ce Soir ou Jamais and Petite Cherie, they also have men’s fragrances and scented candles. Each boutique is a lovely paradise of scent. There are several in Paris but my favorite is at 14 rue de Castiglione, 75001 Paris.
(2) L’Artisan Parfumeur: They make fragrances for women and men, as well as scented candles and home fragrances. Best known for Mure et Musc, La Chasse aux Papillons and Premier Figuier. Their candles smell divine. 34 rue des Francs Bourgeois, 75003 Paris (Marais).
(3) Nose: Started by Romano Ricci, great-grandson of Nina Ricci, this boutique carries fragrances by Francis Kurkdjian, Cire Trudon, Creed, Acqua di Parma and more. If you don’t know which perfume would suit you best, they will offer an olfactive diagnosis. 20, rue Bachaumont, 75002 Paris.
(4) Etat Libre d’Orange: This brand is best known for the unusual names it gives to its fragrances (e.g. Philippine Houseboy and Fat Electrician) and the audacious combinations of scents. 69, rue des Archives, 75003 Paris (Marais).
(5) Editions de Parfums Frederic Malle: Frederic Malle commissioned the world’s best “noses” (e.g. Jean Claude Ellena, Dominique Ropion, Edmond Roudnitska, and others) to create unforgettable fragrances by giving them free rein to use their imaginations and utilize rare raw materials. Among my favourites are Carnal Flower, L’Eau d’Hiver, and Angeliques sous la Pluie. 37 rue de Grenelle, 75005 Paris.
(6) Serge Lutens: Created some of the most mysterious and alluring perfumes in the world, housed in a charming boutique in the Palais Royal. Jardins du Palais Royal, 142 Galerie de Valois, 75001 Paris.
(7) Diptyque: Started in 1961, they created fragrances (such as Philosykos) that are unusual and memorable. Their scented candles are among the very best in the world because their scents are enchanting and they last a long time. They have boutiques around Paris and are sold in the big department stores, but my favorite is the original shop on 34 boulevard St. Germain, 75005 Paris.
(8) Cire Trudon: Founded in 1643, Cire Trudon has supplied candles to French kings and to Napoleon, and was a favourite among the aristocracy because of the high quality wax that they used. 78 rue de Seine, 75006 Paris (St. Germain).
(9) Jovoy: This boutique stocks the rarest perfumes in the world, fragrances you’ve never heard of. If you want to smell like no one else, head to Jovoy. 4, rue de Castiglione, 75001 Paris.
(10) Caron: Founded in 1904, this Parisian perfume house is known for its mythic fragrances like Tabac Blond, Fleurs de Rocaille and Nuit de Noel housed in “fountains” of crystal by Baccarat. 90, rue du Faubourg-St. Honore, 75008 Paris.
(11) Maison Guerlain: Founded in 1828, Guerlain created the most beautiful perfumes in the world (Jicky, Mitsuoko, L’Heure Bleue, Vol de Nuit, Habit Rouge and Vetiver for men, etc.). The flagship boutique is a must for perfume lovers. 68, avenue des Champs Elysees, 75008 Paris.
(12) Maitre Parfumeur et Gantier: Founded in 1989 by Jean Laporte (a master perfumer who died in 2011) and now run by Jean-Paul Millet; known for niche fragrances such as “Route du Vetiver” and perfumed gloves. 5, rue des Capucines, 75001 Paris.
(13) Maison Francis Kurkdjian: Cult perfumer Francis Kurkdjian will create a custom-made perfume that only you will be wearing, a truly unique work of art. Otherwise, you can buy his amazing creations at the boutique on 5, rue d’Alger, 75001 Paris.
(14) Detaille: Founded in 1905 by comtesse de Presle, Detaille sells heady fragrances and their famous Baume Automobile, created in the early days of motoring by a chemist friend of the countess after she complained of dry skin when driving her (windshield-less) car. 10, rue St. Lazare, 75009 Paris.